The Navagraha temple circuit from Kumbakonam

The Navagraha temples from Kumbakonam make one of Tamil Nadu's best-known pilgrimages: nine temples spread across the Kaveri delta, each linked with one of the nine planetary deities of Hindu astronomy. Kumbakonam sits close to many of them, which makes the town a natural base for the circuit. This guide introduces the nine temples and what to think about when you plan your visits.

What the Navagraha temples are

The Navagraha are the nine celestial bodies of Hindu astronomy: the Sun, the Moon, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, and the two lunar nodes, Rahu and Ketu. Nine temples around Kumbakonam and Mayiladuthurai are each associated with one of them. They were built under the Cholas, and visiting all nine is a well-known pilgrimage.

According to tradition, the nine planets were cursed by Brahma for granting a cure to the sage Kalava, and were sent to earth at what is now Suryanar Kovil. They prayed to Shiva, who told them to stay and bless devotees from these places.

Apart from Suryanar Kovil, these are Shiva temples: Shiva is worshipped in the main shrine, and the planet is honoured in a shrine of its own. Keep this in mind when you visit, since the temple's name is usually Shiva's, not the planet's.

The nine temples

• Surya (the Sun): Suryanar Kovil, Thanjavur district. The only one of the nine dedicated to the planet itself, and, by tradition, where the nine planets first came to earth.
• Chandra (the Moon): Kailasanathar Temple, Thingalur, Thanjavur district.
• Angaraka (Mars): Vaidyanathar Temple, Vaitheeswaran Kovil, Mayiladuthurai district.
• Budha (Mercury): Swetharanyeswarar Temple, Thiruvenkadu, Mayiladuthurai district.
• Guru (Jupiter): Apatsahayesvarar Temple, Alangudi, Thiruvarur district.
• Sukra (Venus): Agniswarar Temple, Kanjanur, Thanjavur district.
• Shani (Saturn): Dharbaranyeswarar Temple, Thirunallar. Thirunallar is in Karaikal district, which belongs to the Union Territory of Puducherry, not to Tamil Nadu.
• Rahu: Naganathar Temple, Thirunageswaram, on the outskirts of Kumbakonam. Many serpents are said to have worshipped Shiva here, and devotees believe that the milk poured over the image of Rahu during worship turns blue.
• Ketu: Keezhperumpallam, Mayiladuthurai district.

Read more on the Navagraha temples page.

Planning the circuit

The temples lie across three districts of Tamil Nadu and the Karaikal district of Puducherry, so the circuit is a road journey rather than a walk. There is no single fixed order: plan the route on a map from where you are staying, and group the temples that lie close to one another. Thirunageswaram, on the outskirts of Kumbakonam, is the easiest to fit into a day in the town itself.

Before you set out:

• Opening hours are set by each temple and can change on festival days. Check the notice at each temple or ask locally, rather than relying on hours printed elsewhere.
• Travel: for trains and roads to Kumbakonam itself, see the travel page.
• Your own pace: decide how many temples you want to see in a day before you book a vehicle, and allow time for worship and for crowds at the busier temples.

During Mahamaham

Kumbakonam is at its busiest in the Mahamaham festival period, expected in March 2028 (dates to be confirmed by TN HR&CE). If you want to combine the festival with the Navagraha circuit, keep the circuit for the days before or after the main bathing day. The events page lists upcoming festivals at the temples around the town, with their calculated dates.